In the far corner of old town Bratislava at the end of Kapitulska Street, stands a music house. It was built in the 17th century, owned by the Catholic church, and provided to the music director of Saint Martin’s Cathedral, Alexander Albrecht, as partial payment for his service.

Upon his death, Alexander’s son, Ján, lived in the house. Under the dictates of communism, the church no longer existed as a religious body. This place became an open house for musicians to gather, perform, and freely exchange ideas. On any given night, music could be heard.

Pat and I first saw the Albrecht house in the fall of 2011 shortly after moving to Bratislava. One Saturday morning, we stumbled upon a music shop, went inside, and met the owner, Igor. Over coffee, he related the story of the nearby house and of his dream to restore it. He recounted its history and his memories there as a gathering place during the strictures of communism.

Eventually we toured the house, gingerly creeping over holes and debris, climbing up and down ladders placed near crumbling stairwells.

The dilapidation had evolved over years. In the absence of a committed landlord, the ancient roof had begun to leak. After Ján’s death, the roof collapsed and the structure quickly eroded into a shambles. For more than a decade, the house lay fallow—hunched and silent.

Enter our new friend Igor. Modern day Don Quixote? Deluded madman? Relentless visionary? Only time would tell, but it seemed sheer madness that a middle-class Slovak with a full-time job believed he could secure nearly a million euros of funding and manage a historic property renovation.

And so it was, euro by euro, approval by approval, nights, weekends, Igor moved through the project over the course of 13 years. What masqueraded as insanity was, in fact, a laser-sharp focus fueled by an unfathomable passion.

He added a roof, restored 18th century decoratively painted walls, completed the external house renovations, created a garden paradise, and revitalized the 14th century wine cellar. Gradually, useable nooks were created, and the house crept back to life.

Last week, we visited Igor, and his wife and partner in all of this, Vlasta. On Friday evening, a Swedish church choir performed in the garden. On Sunday, a classical music ensemble played Baroque pieces with period instruments in the recently completed concert room.

A real-life Phoenix-risen-from-the-ashes had occurred before our eyes. It was staggering to witness the transformation from the beginning. It was humbling to remember all the projects, large and small, floating incomplete in my life’s wake.

As we left Sunday evening, I said to Igor, “I wonder what Ján is thinking right now.”

Igor laughed, “He’s thinking I’m crazy.”

Crazy? Brilliant? Relentless? Or maybe a dash of all three.

All I know is in the far reaches of Kapitulska there’s a music house, and once again, on any given night music can be heard.

I have to believe that Ján would be happy.

Learn more about the Albrecht House, here.

Categories: Insiders Bratislava, Ruminations

Tags: Alexander Albrecht, Bratislava music, the music forum, the world inbetween